How it works · Installation method
Installation by hand, with the T-handle wrench
For small jobs and for places no machine can reach: all you need is the right wrench and one or two people. The T-Block screws in, takes the structure straight away and, at the end of its life, unscrewed, it leaves no trace.
When to use it
Hand installation works as long as arm strength is enough to take the T-Block down to its design depth: in practice, up to the models of the T6 series. Beyond that you move on to the power driver with reaction bar or to the hydraulic rotary drive.
- Fences and signs, with headless T-Block models that take the post
- Gazebos, pergolas, garden sheds, decks
- Paved yards: open a hole in the paver and screw through it
- Courtyards, embankments, riverbanks: places a machine cannot reach
- Just a few points, where bringing in a machine is not worth it
What you need
Everything you need fits in a bag: the right wrench depends on the T-Block head.
For T-Block models with a hexagon head
A T-handle and a socket that matches the T-Block head: the size is given on the model data sheet. The kits already contain both parts; the adapter lets you use a 1" drive socket on the 3/4" handle.
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TH075CMBTB41A
Kit: 3/4" T-handle + 41 mm socket
Accessory details -
TH075CMBTB46A
Kit: 3/4" T-handle + 46 mm socket
Accessory details -
TH075
T-handle, 3/4" drive
Accessory details -
TH100
T-handle, 1" drive
Accessory details -
RR1M75F
Adapter 3/4" F → 1" M
Accessory details -
CMBTB41A
Socket 41 mm, 3/4" drive
Accessory details -
CMBTB46A
Socket 46 mm, 3/4" drive
Accessory details -
CMBTB60A
Socket 60 mm, 3/4" drive
Accessory details -
CMBTB70A
Socket 70 mm, 3/4" drive
Accessory details -
CMBTB41B
Socket 41 mm, 1" drive
Accessory details -
CMBTB46B
Socket 46 mm, 1" drive
Accessory details -
CMBTB60B
Socket 60 mm, 1" drive
Accessory details -
CMBTB70B
Socket 70 mm, 1" drive
Accessory details
For the headless T-Block models designed for it
Tube wrench and through bar. Which models they fit is stated on each accessory page.
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CMT1F
Ø60 tube wrench, Ø22 through hole
For headless T-Block models with a Ø60 post guide
Accessory details -
MCM20ZE
Ø20 bar, L 600 mm, electro-galvanized
Accessory details - Image in preparation
CMT30F20ZE
Ø48 wrench for 30 mm T-post, galvanized
For T-Block models with a 30 mm T-post guide
Accessory details - Image in preparation
CMT35F20ZE
Ø48 wrench for 35 mm T-post, galvanized
For T-Block models with a 35 mm T-post guide
Accessory details
For headless T-Block models for a Ø60 post
The temporary hexagon interface slides into the top of the T-Block and takes the 60 mm socket. It comes off when installation is finished.
Step by step
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WindCity, Torbole (TN) Step 1: Mark the points
With a tape measure, string line and pegs, or a dot of spray paint, mark where the T-Block ground screws will go, at the spacing set by the design.
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Step 2: If the ground is hard, drill a pilot hole
A small hole, not an excavation: it clears stones and roots near the surface and helps the T-Block start straight. On a paved yard you open a hole in the paver. In sand and loose soils it is usually not needed.
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Hexagon head
CMT1F tube wrench Step 3: Get the wrench ready
Each T-Block is screwed in with a socket that matches the size of its head: the size is given on the model data sheet. The socket fits on the T-handle. For the headless T-Block models designed for it there is a tube wrench with a through bar: the accessory page says which models it fits. For the headless T-Block models for a Ø60 post there is the temporary hexagon interface: it slides into the top of the T-Block, takes the 60 mm socket and comes off when installation is finished.
Model data sheetsCMT1F tube wrenchMCM20ZE barITHL70B60M12FP temporary interface
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Step 4: Screw it in
Set the tip on the mark, hold the T-Block upright and turn clockwise. Stop now and then to check it stays vertical: correcting it in the first turns is easy, halfway down it is not. The longer models are a two-person job.
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Step 5: Check the level and plumb
The head must reach the planned height and the shaft must be plumb: a spirit level held against the shaft or the head is enough to check it.
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Step 6: Fix the structure
Whatever needs to be supported is fixed on the head: a base plate, a bracket, a post foot. On headless T-Block models the post slides into the top.
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Step 7: At the end of its life, unscrew it
With the same wrench, anticlockwise. The T-Block comes out whole: unscrewed, it leaves no trace, and there is no concrete block to break out.
Caution
What not to do, what to watch out for
- Keep the T-Block vertical from the very first turns: straightening it once it is halfway in is difficult.
- If the wrench stops turning before the design depth, do not force it: drill a pilot hole or switch to a method with the power driver or a machine.
See it done
The other methods
Every stage of a job-
Installation methodPower driver with reaction bar
up to T7
How it is done -
Installation methodExcavator with rotary drive
beyond T7
How it is done -
Installation methodTracked mast machine
many points in a row
How it is done -
Load testLoad test: compression test
on-site load test
How it works -
Load testLoad test: pull-out test
on-site load test
How it works
Got a project?
Tell us what you need to install and where: we will help you choose the model and the installation method. The configurator suggests the T-Block series and quantity, starting from the application and the soil.